A good place to go to learn about high fuel economy is Bruce McBurney's HIMAC site at http://www.himacresearch.com
marvelous. Fantastic, and miraculous.
One little question.
If vaporising petroleum into a 'dry' vapour is so effective, why doesn't a conventional LPG or propane system achieve these superlative efficiencies?
[quote="Anonymous"]marvelous. Fantastic, and miraculous.
If vaporising petroleum into a 'dry' vapour is so effective, why doesn't a conventional LPG or propane system achieve these superlative efficiencies?[/quote]
Organic chemistry may help you find the answer.
A guess on my part would be that when liquid petrol turns to a vapor it expands many times more than propane. For example, water expands roughly 1500 times when it changes state from liquid to gas form.
The fact is that propane DOES achieve these efficiencies, but first let's understand efficiency. Efficiency would refer to conversion rate, from chemical energy, to thermal energy, to kinetic energy. Propane doesn't have near the BTU energy that gasoline does. What little energy it does have, it converts to kinetic energy quite efficiently. Gasoline has a much higher BTU energy content, but our fuel systems and engines convert very little of it to kinetic energy. By vaporizing, or better yet, cracking the gasoline, we are able to increase the BTU-to-kinetic energy conversion efficiency.
'...you can not get the dynamic energy out of one gallon of gasoline it has been proven . However my science is that gasoline can be converted into natural gas and methanol and these new fuels have the dynamic energy...'
So the process of converting one fuel into another adds 'dynamic energy' to it?
You said "my science". We'd love to hear what you've discovered that might help us. Please share.
I believe he was quoting from the link at the start of this thread;
" However my science is that gasoline can be converted into natural gas and methanol and these new fuels have the dynamic energy to obtain these amazing mileage gains. This understanding that the catalyitc cracking fuel reproccesor is the answer whether it has been missed or suppressed before matters nothing compared to that it gets out to our world now. It is more than just a few dollars in the fuel tank. Check out the following info . I did not start this and can only help to finish it with some help from all who read this!" Jim
looks like alot to read-up on
my conceern about heating fuel lies with the injector pump. I know a fair amount about the ICE but must admit most of what I know stops at the early 80's so forgive me if I make any obvious mistakes.
I know for a fact that it is very bad to heat up diesel before the injection pump. Diesel has 0 viscosity and very little lubrisity, the IP works non stop like a spark plug at a very high psi. Heating up diesel drops the centistroke from about 13 (I think) to somthing very damaging to a very expensive piece of equipment.
The reason I ramble about diesel is because I fear that hot gasoline would do the same thing to an injection pump though admiditly I dont know how a gasoline IP works. This may be somthing worth looking into. I hear alot about people heating fuel and often times off the exaust which is definatly bad. I would love to hear of any long term results.
I do not doubt that heating fuel works but it is allways good to look before you leap.
I am not trying to neysay just playing devils advocate.
If I am talking out my ass please let me know
As for heating diesel fuel, my uncle had an '83 Ford pick-up diesel that had a FACTORY fuel heater. As for heating fuel, personally I stick to engine coolant temperatures and avoid exhaust temps. In the past I did wrap fuel lines around exhaust manifolds, but people change.
I like the fact that you are questioning everything, looking before you leap, and are concerned with safety. Good work, Erik. Much of the advantage of heating the fuel on recirculating EFI systems is the added vapor that is generated in the fuel tank itself. The evaporative emissions system (charcoal canister) takes these vapors and bleeds them into the throttle body. Some guys tap into the evap line and vent these vapors directly to the base of the throttle body, bypassing the canister. Even with the canister system, you get that "pfshhh" when you take the fuel filler cap off. This means there are vapors that aren't making it to the engine as fast as the tank generates them.
Of course, as you increase the vapor-to-liquid ratio, you need to reduce the amount of liquid you send to the engine. This gets into the tuning aspect of it all.
thanks for the encouragement. I wasnt trying to sound like an ass and am glad it wasnt taken that way.
Diesel heaters are typically to bring diesel fuel to an agreeable temp as to not gel. works great for the snow. To the best of my knowlage it doesnt heat it past 100 or so.
I heat all the fuel in my benz but thats because it is veggie oil.
Speaking of which. if you go to fattywagons.com you can find hose in hose heaters for fuel as well as electric fuel line heaters. The electric ones run about 8 amps but to be honest they probably run to hot. Also they are easy to make and I bet you can get it down to 4 or 5 amps. HIH is the best way to go though, also easy to make and if anyone is interested I can dig up the link w instructions and part #'s. This brings fuel up to just about coolant temps. Theay are adjustable w a ball valve.
I look fwd to reading up more on this.
Hey mike as long as I have you.
I am having a problem leaning my fuel out. My maf effie has a hair trigger (think it has somthing to do w the fact that its a toyota) I keep getting a p0171 trouble code. I have it set somwhere 18 and 22 at idle (been moving it around a bit) do these seem like good #s to you or does it usually go lower than that. If I go lower I get an imediat Trouble code. I have my IAT raised about 20 degrees but to be honest I have no idea as to the temps I should raise it. The ECT is the recomended 10 degrees. For now I have my 02 sensor wraped in tin foil which seems to offer some improvment. Toyotas seem to be there own animals when it comes to tuneing.
Can you give me any recomendations???
I think my Maf may be dieing because before I installed my unit I was getting an ocasional lean trouble code that would come and go but it would tipically pop up do about 65 or so up a very steep H way. Could it be somthing besides the maf??
Thanks for your time
You didn't mention if there were any hard mods to the Toy. The biggest problem we encounter is dying O2 sensors that seem to work fine until we start tuning. Have had an '08 Ford Ranger with 5k miles puke an O2 on the dyno a couple of weeks ago. Out of their normal operating range they show any weaknesses. I recommend using only factory O2 replacements and stay away from Bosch. A lean code is low O2 voltage. A slow or dying O2 sensor will not be able to generate voltage. Sounds reasonable to me.
You said your MAF is set between 18 and 22... is this ohms of resistance in one of the wires or is this some piece of electronic equipment that you are using?